The past few months have been very difficult for me. I was in desperate need of new perspectives because all I wanted to do was disappear. And I did. Luckily, I have amazing and patient friends and siblings who would force me to get out of my bed just so they can take me away from my never-ending TV marathon which obviously did not do anything for my social life. What is luckier is that two of them share my love for surfing and the sea. And so we went back to La Union and had the time of our lives again.
As I have probably mentioned before, every surf trip is different. I have ridden waves with different intensity, speed and height (nothing above 7 feet yet, of course, haha, I’m not an expert) and this is because the sea is never really the same (a good metaphor for life, agree? ). It is unpredictable and moody… and I think sea-lovers like it that way.
Goofing around with the camera
With Hannah’s Banana board. 6’10” is more difficult than 7’6” definitely!
What makes me go back for more surfing trips despite my lack of upper body strength (or any physical strength, really, haha) and swimming skills, 6-hour drive, expenses, uncoordinated arms, is how it gets me to feel fear and excitement at the same time. I would hear and see the waves that I am about to ride and I would feel terrified and pumped up instantly. I will have to manage to paddle, get up and balance myself to control the ride all in a matter of seconds. It is one of the magical feelings I have ever experienced. I especially love that it takes away all my care in the world and it has me focused on myself, riding the wave, being in the moment and getting to know nature more.
It was raining both times during our recent trips. It was the first time I was able to spend an entire afternoon by the sea, not hiding from the sun under the shade. It was awesome to say the least. It would drizzle every now and then and I would smile as I cannot recall the last time I had fun under the rain and I am glad, at that time, we did. We were exchanging stories, pretending to be experts at reading waves though actually learning, observing and drooling over how crazy good the local surfers were, doing small talks with strangers (with dogs!) and playing frisbee. The best part was, I did not get a shade darker! Okay, I kid, but really, I think I did not (but put on sunblock kids, lots of them even if it is cloudy or raining). The best of it all was we were laughing, happy and ecstatic. What I would give to live my life like that for a bit longer?
No contemplation needed, I was healed by getting stoked. My love for surfing will probably end only when I can no longer manage to walk with my back straight. But even then, I will never stop longing. So, I suggest doing the following things when faced with difficult problems. Shower in the rain like a kid (yes, with jumping, cartwheel, and running) and do something for the first time. I’ll be back soon enough. And yes, I would like to have more surf trips, ‘til then!